Tbilisi, Georgia

link to travel/dance video: available soon

21/08/2018-22/08/2018

DAY ONE

I do not remember a time I have left so late to fly. I left for the airport at 19:00 and was there within 30 minutes- I didn’t think Heathrow was so close. I had an awkward 30 minute wait before I could begin to check in. At the front of the queue I thought I was all set to go, boarding pass printed to find out my first and middle name had been swapped on the pass but not on all documentation and so they wanted to check it was ok for me to fly without any issues. As I’m waiting I hear an elderly woman has fainted in the queue. I went over to assist and was shocked that no staff member knew what to do in a basic situation, and we had to wait quite a long time before we could get a wheelchair for her to move in and then even longer for the paramedic that I don’t think saw her in the end.

After all this was done, I went back to check on my ticket. I found out that in ‘normal circumstances’ i would have to buy new tickets but they would find me new ones (as now they had doubled in price) and swap it over with the £20 charge. It was a little frustrating as i then had to re-queue to get my boarding passes printed but it ended all ok. I had plenty of time still to buy some snacks and wait by my gate.

GEORGIA IS SO NOT WELL KNOWN THAT THE WOMAN GIVING ME MY TICKET ASKED WHERE IT WAS, ONLY KNOWING ABOUT GEORGIA USA.

I feel I need to visit Moscow/Russia soon. I was sat next to two strangers who ended up talking the whole way through. I was woke up at one point to them both speaking to me in Russian- when they saw I was very confused this swapped to English- where they were asking about what meal I would like. AGAIN- it has been so long since I have eaten on a plane. I asked for vegetarian to which the response was it needed to be pre-booked (I am never going through budget-air again as I got no information), so I said it was ok to leave it. The air hostess came back with cheese and toast and snacks, and then one of the passengers even passed me an extra snack. They are so kind.

I am now sat in Moscow, unable to connect to the WIFI as my phone needs it to receive the confirmation text message. I am beyond tired and excited to just; get there, check in, have lunch, a wander and then a nap.

3 hours later I am boarding the flight to Tbilisi. One thing I can say about Eastern Europe is they are very punctual- we start boarding 15 minutes before needed to both in Heathrow and Moscow. Russian’s are also so LOVELY- but apparently now i can pass for Russian too. All I have had is people speak to me in Russian and looked shocked when I explain I cannot speak it. I knew I was versatile, blending in wherever I went, but i didn’t expect that.

I passed out on the flight, but was struggling to keep my eyes open even when the plane had landed. I so need to play catch up on my sleep, and remember to take it easy. Saying the airport was small is an understatement, but I was chasing the sun and landed in Moscow as it was about to rise and then rising in Tbilisi.

As you drive from the airport you are taken with how green the country is, but also seeing poorer buildings. As you get closer to the centre you see the photos you may find online of colourful buildings down hillsides. There is this massive river flowing between the centre and glass structures for every ‘significant’ building such as parliament and the peace bridge. This glass bridge runs over the water where you get 360 views of the mountains, hill, cable cars and colours below.

Today I went into Ryke Park (which is an artists dream), with giant piano sculptures and an outside amphitheatre it is such an inspiring place to be, and with beautiful scenery to take in. I AM GOING TO FILM SOME FORM OF DANCE HERE- I CANNOT LEAVE WITHOUT IT.

I then left the cable car and walked up the hillside to see the aerial views of Tbilisi and the church it sported. After a little shower, the sky was greeted with a rainbow for the perfect opening shots of this beautiful city. I left by heading back the other way to the park where I had a meal outside with live music being played all around me.

I think I could learn something about myself here.

23/08/2018

Day Two

Tour 1

I woke up quite late, 10 am, and eased into getting ready. I began walking the opposite way to where I ventured yesterday, and found myself in freedom square and right outside a tourist store. I enquired in one previously about a trip to Kathski Pillar which ended up being really expensive and I left. This one I was looking at what they offered and within 5 minutes was on a Tbilisi tour- I was drawn in by turtle lake. Anyone that knows me knows my obsession with turtles and its meaning.

The tour started off OK and then got amazing. We visited the holy trinity church first- which was beautiful. It has a golden roof and is the newest church I have ever seen- it was finished being built in 2004- CRAZY. Its front consists of 3 layers (I am assuming for each of the trinity) and then the dome tower behind. It is greeted by 12 pillars to represent the 11 regions and capital city of Georgia, and has a few small buildings around showcasing some artefact replicas. The interior however is not as beautiful, you could see it quite plain but they loved to show off the jewels they had on tapestries and paintings. I lit a candle and moved on.

We then went to one of the mounts, adjacent to the one I was on yesterday. On top you can see what looks like a big electricity pillar from ground level, so I was surprised when there was a whole amusement park on top. It was not tacky at all but so beautiful with a planetarium, water features, a petting zoo and wedding space. The area was lined with hammocks to chill and sit in the sun with and I can only image during peak summer it being so busy. If this country was swarming with tourists I think the place would be unpleasant but it was so beautiful. After some time we re-met at the bus and headed for turtle lake.

Named without any turtles but because of its shape, I walked down the bank (after taking photos at the panoramic place) and was greeted by a lake in between vast amounts of trees. It was so pretty. Some people were on little boats, others fishing or sun bathing. As I walked around I saw a stage. You could not image my excitement- no one was performing but I took my chance to improvise on it- and came up with an idea.

I WILL BE CREATING A TRAVEL AND IMPRO VIDEO OF MY TIME IN GEORGIA- WHERE I WILL SHOW SOME SITES AND THINGS I HAVE DONE WITH PARTS OF ME DANCING IN PRETTY PLACES WITHIN.

After some time here we headed back to freedom square. After a lot of history lessons i continued my walk opposite to where I was and came across some lovely street sellers where I got my new hippie Uni bag and before I clumsly knocked over all the magnets in another store (i didn’t break anything and they were very nice to me). I ended up coming into the part I knew from the other side and was so happy to know where I was. I went back to my room for a quick break and pause out of the sun before going back to Ryke Park and reading my book. I think I will spend some time here everyday and just watch the world go by. After dinner I headed back for the night with the hope of sleeping early for my tour tomorrow.

24/08/2018

DAY THREE

Tour 2

I was up by 8am. In fact I woke up a lot of times before, think I was worried about not waking up in time, and even had a kitten come and wake me up at 5am. Once up and ready, I eased my way into the town centre (of course I walked the wrong way first) and even got help from some locals who rung up the company when the address I was given was wrong- people here are genuinely so kind. I got to the tourist office and handed in my voucher and within 10 minutes was on this beautiful mini bus en route.

My first stop was Gori, where I visited the Stalin Museum. I saw a gap in my knowledge and loved being able to step into his house, where he grew up in poverty, and see where protests were to get rid of his statue and anything to do with the soviet rule.

From here we got back on the bus and went to Uplistsikhe Caves. Here we entered inside this national park and climbed up to see one of the first places inhabited in Georgia, inside caves. There used to be 700 but due to the environment and the war a lot were lost. The caves were even greeted with a small church on top of the cave complex. I got some beautiful picture of them and the stunning views with the river cutting between the ground.

Stopping for lunch, we sat by the cave entrance under a canopy and enjoyed a traditional Georgian meal. I even got to try plums off a fresh tree- they were beautiful.

Back in the car led us to Borjomi. A place famous for its healing water, they say two weeks here can cure you of any stomach issues due to the minerals in the water. Let me tell you- the water does not taste nice.

1. It smells of egg

2. It tastes like sparkling water without bubbles and has been sat

3. The aftertaste is not too bad but a little nutty

The line took 30 mins to fill up from this fountain down a few stairs (i was expecting to scoop it from the river), and then we had 30 mins left. I went after the hot springs which is like a natural Jacuzzi inside the park. It was a 30 min walk there and same back, so I ran out of time. Craving to be near the water it’s a good thing I am returning to turtle lake tomorrow for a swim and to visit the museum there.

Unfortunately I didn’t know how bad the water was until I poured out all my perfectly good water and was stuck on the bus back with this.

The 2.5 hour drive back to Tbilisi I passed out, and woke up to the city in darkness. I went back to my room- had a shower and sat with some people from my hostel, and somehow it was 23:30. Today has been a long, tiring day but has gone so quick. I highly recommend this tour to anyone that goes. I met a Brit and found out about a natural waterfall in Tbilisi town centre, and even about paragliding. I BOOKED MY FIRST ONE FOR MONDAY!!!

25/08/18

Day Four

Tour 3

OMG did I lay in. I woke up at 7 but thought it was too early and then didn’t make it alive until midday. I got ready quick- checked the weather and saw Sunday was better for a lake kind of day. I headed to ‘freedom square’ and passed the art café I made a note I wanted to visit. Straight into the tourist office I booked my ticket to M (the old capital) for two hours time and headed back to the art cafe for brunch. It was quaint. I sat outside in the 31 degree heat and was surrounded by objects turned into plant pots- such as a stereo- and then a piano made into a bird cage (the cage I didn’t agree with but the concept was cool). PANCAKES- I had no had them in ages and was so happy to trial it with a Georgian jam. To pay I headed inside to see the walls all lined with different art styles, and most of them were available to buy. It was cute.

I strolled back to the main square and this time was picked up on a shrunken down tourist-style bus. The first stop, the church where Christianity began in Georgia with Saint Nino (a female saint despite the male sounding name). It was on top of another mountain, and even had a newly-wed couple and their bridesmaids taking their wedding shots in the scenery. The thing about Georgian churches is that they are beautiful outside and quite bland/plain inside. Once finished here we headed into the heart of the old capital to another church. This one is considered the second church of Georgia, behind the holy trinity. It is said that the cloak used to wrap Jesus was carried here from Jerusalem and when one woman touched it she was so overcome she died. Where she died grew a tree and from this spot the church was built. The tree cut down made 7 wooden pillars- the last was said to levitate and no one could pull it down except Saint Nino who after a night of praying succeeded- resulting in it being shorter than the rest. Now inside the church, under this 7th pillar is said to hold the cloak of Jesus still, and it is the only pillar to let oil run down the side of it, which some say is proof. In the church is also the tombs of the first King and Queen to allow Christianity, the bones of another Saint and a replica of a church in Jerusalem meaning there is a church within a church. After leaving here- and sneakily touching the 7th pillar- we had some time to meander down the quaint streets lined with market stalls.

Our last stop on the tour held two points. 1 was wine tasting and learning how it is made in Georgia (which is older than that of France or Italy), and the white wine was nice. 2. We walked across the road to an all female monastery- where there were two churches and the nun’s houses. The main church was small and again quaint. The smallest church was one build 10 centuries prior for Saint Nino to pray.

When leaving and waiting for the bus there were two tiny puppies on the street- I thought they belonged to someone but later found out they didn’t. They were so good with people and let me come up and stroke them. I offered them water, to find out they were so dehydrated and malnourished and no one had offered them anything. I would have taken them back with me could I at the hostel or bring them to the UK. You would think outside a monastery they would be cared for. I advise anyone to always carry water with you and if you see any animal offer some water on the floor- don’t think someone else will as the case is they often don’t.

Driving through Tbilisi you will see many people fishing down the river, from pavement heights, and cows walk by the roads like nothing (Wherever you are) from calves to full blown bulls.

On the bus ride back to Tbilisi I remembered that tonight was an art event in Ryke park (this one being the last). The bus gave me around 20 minutes before it was to start at 8. The music and stage was already lit and going, i got a seat around the fountain and was shocked there were people entering the stage. No costume, but full make up marking dances in front of a large crowd with blasting music. People were filming as if this was it. IT WAS SO UNPROFESSIONAL, and if you were walking by that would be your first and only impression of traditional Georgian dance= they looked so fed up.

1 hour later it finally began. The costumes were beautiful and the night was a blend of singing and dancing. The male singers were beautiful as they ranged from Soprano to bass- one for each. They sung traditional songs and spoke in Georgian, with which the crowd sung along (I of course had no idea what was being said). As for the dancing, the males and the male sections I can describe as strong ballet. You can see a correlation of how it could have been influenced by Russian Ballet. They jumped so high and moved so quick with strong jagged arms. The females on the other hand, held themselves upright, only moved small steps and kept their arms moving between a third-ish position. They didn’t do much else. When partnered the same kind of dynamic was going on- though positions such as male/female lines and then all male circles were prominent. Once finished up I headed in for the night.

26/08/18

Day Five

It was such a needed chill day. After not sleeping well again- think life is catching up with me- I lazed awake and strolled into town to catch a cab. I tried communicating with one man who only knew Russian but with the help of my turtle purse was able to say where I needed to go and he even secured a really cheap fixed price for me.

I got to turtle lake and just tanned by the pool, it wasn't as hot as yesterday but was nice. I even got to swim. A local was discussing some of the best places to go. After a few hours I headed back where I encountered my first rude Georgian.

He was blatantly trying to rip me off- knowing I was British trying to get me to pay 8x the price it took me to get there. I still paid more than I should but left with half what he was asking for. I then wandered back to the hostel and began editing the video montage of Georgia. Back out I had my dinner in my favourite spot in Ryke park and was then greeted by a fountain display with music from around the world- ish.

Back in early for the night as I am up bright and early for my pick up to Paragliding.

27/08/2018

Day six

So last night the girl sleeping above me had an upset stomach and was up every 5 minutes for about 2 hours. It wasn't ideal, but everyone I have met says that they get ill when transitioning from their country to Georgia- but no me go yay me and my immune system.

I was outside my hostel at 8:40am and waiting to be collected. I got picked up my a man who had no English, but I think I am getting good at signing what I need as we went to get cash out. He dropped me at this grande hotel where I was picked up again in a 4x4. Now they spoke English.. We drove 15 minutes up the mountains and they were explaining different paragliding competitions, the wine in Georgia and how it is normal to have 3-5 bottles a day and use instead of water. I was SO nervous when at the hotel and knew I had to fight my anxiety and that I would be proud of myself. Once in tis jeep and surrounded by fields and cattle I was at ease (it felt like my h0ome in Wales). The fact the instructors were so calm only added to this.

They set up the equipment and strapped me up. I had a go pro in one hand on a selfish-stick thing and within 5 minutes we were up in the air being tailed by the car and then released and free flying. It was not as scary at all. In fact quite chill. When in the air the guy I was with showed me landmarks from above (which was lovely to see) and then did some acrobatics like twirls and spins. I definitely have more adventure in me than I give myself credit for, and am now looking for bungee jumps to do with my mates when in Madrid for New Year.

On the way back, the instructors were telling me about taxify (same as Malta- their version of Uber) and prices of taxis. You can get to one side of Tbilisi to the other (which is massive) for 10 lari. I was right.

Once back I went for a walk the only direction out of old Tbilisi I hadn't been and came across the Sulphur baths (that were closed so I couldn't go in) and continued walking. I came across more beautiful parks, churches and art sculptures/monuments.

After the wlak i came back and had a npa before venturing back out to Ryke Park - I LOVE IT HERE. I IMPROVISED ON THE AMITHEATRE STAGE, AND DREW A SMALL AUIDNECE WHICH WAS A LITTLE OFF PUTTING BUT ALSO REALLY NICE AS I WARMED UP AND STRETCHED. I GOT TO GO TO ANOTHER WORLD AS I READ MY BOOK- AND FELT SO RELAXED. My body and brain are starting to come together in unison now.

Outfit change and I went out for the night, the first destination was closed- which was a tower bar- but then I came back to the heart of the old town and into another tower spot.. The views were beautiful- and Georgian wine is so easy to drink. All natural. As I only have carry on, I will have to try and buy some at the airport.

28/08/2018

Day Seven- my last day

I booked my airport transfer for midnight tonight, and once easing my way into the morning I headed back to my favourite place and soaked in the sun in the atmosphere reading my book.

I caught the sun, and enjoyed traditional Georgian icecream. After finding out about the 'mother of Georgia' statue last night, of how her holding both food and a knife shows the warm opening and peaceful love that is outstretched to anyone, yet if is attacked she can protect herself. It is a saying of love and protection. The statue doubles up with the countries belief that wommen are powerful, and holding a love and respect for females and motherly strength.

After seeing her from the ground I finally got the cable car up to the top of the hill (the one I walked on the first day), and went to see her closeup. From ground level the statue looks stone, but up close it is an allimunium structure. After having a look I spent some time sat underneath looking out over Tbilisi. Walking back I went into the botanical garden (again on top of the hill) and saw zip liners go off ahead of me. I saw my third wedding photos being taken in the town centre- either in parks or by isolated churches.

Late evening I headed back to the hostel after perfect day of reflecting and becoming one with myself. I received my paragliding video and finished editing. The car picked me up and to the airport I went.

I was there 30 minutes before the gates to check in opened- meaning in Georgia you have to be there a maximum of 2 hours before.

The flights were good- I highly recommended the Russian airline- and with only a two hour overlay I was quickly back on a plane. I had pancakes for breakfast (I was VERY happy). I got back to London by mid mornorning and surprisingly awake. After a chill day and a few naps I am ready to be busy again tomorrow.

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